Bacher’s Blog

Rwanda Photographs on Exhibit: Now through September 1st
World Forestry Center - Discovery Museum,
4033 SW Canyon Rd., Portland Oregon.

An exhibit of photographs will be on display featuring many of the images posted to this blog. The work that follows below is the result of a month long trip to Rwanda, in October 2007, part of a partnership between myself (Portland photographer, Adam Bacher, www.adambacher.com), and the Oregon-based Itafari Foundation (www.itafari.org).
I spent the month documenting the people of Rwanda, and Itafari’s work on their behalf.

Twenty percent of sales will be donated to Itafari.

Please join me.

In September 2000, the largest gathering of world leaders in history adopted the UN Millennium Declaration, committing their nations to a new global partnership to reduce extreme poverty. They set out a time-bound series of targets known as the Millennium Development Goals (MDG), with a deadline of 2015 for meeting them.

These goals are quantified targets for addressing extreme poverty, hunger, disease, inadequate shelter, while promoting gender equality, education, and environmental sustainability. They are basic human rights of all people on our planet to adequate health, education, shelter, and security.

In 2002, the United Nations Secretary –General, commissioned the Millennium Project, and its 8 basic goals:

1. Eradicate extreme hunger and poverty

2. Achieve universal primary education

3. Promote gender equality and empower women

4. Reduce child mortality

5. Improve maternal health

6. Combat HIV/AIDS, malaria and other disease

7. Ensure environmental sustainability

8. Develop a global partnership for development

There are twelve Millennium Villages in sub-Saharan Africa. In Rwanda, a Millennium Village cluster is located in Mayange, less than an hour’s drive from the capital of Kigali. Shortly before returning home, I spent a day touring a portion of this village. Located in Rwanda’s Bugesera District, the area is one of the most underdeveloped and arid parts of the country. With limited water access, one solution was to build cisterns between houses to catch water run off. The girl seen below is leaning against one of them. Gutters from homes on either side divert rain water into the cistern. At the bottom is a spigot for filling water cans.

Fertilizers, drought resistant crops, and grafting techniques are utilized to help improve farm yields. The farmer below took us to his fields to show what crops he’s growing.

Cassava, grown for its starch filled roots, is highly adaptable to these soils.

Grafting fruit-bearing trees to native root stocks is also successful in this area. Avocado, mango, pomegranate, and orange grafts will become productive in as little as two years. Shown below is a newly grafted plant. The graft is the cut line on the midpoint of the stem, enlarged in the box on the lower right.

The school that serves this area has 700 students and 9 teachers.

Unique among the millennium villages, one of Mayange’s goals is to help heal the wounds of genocide. In one area we visited, homes were built by survivors and perpetrators working together. Today they live side by side in peace. The woman below lost her entire family.

This man participated in the killing of seven people in the area. After serving ten years in jail, he is now welcomed in the community.

The newly built health clinic and maternity ward serves the needs of the community.

Other members of the village…

Copyright Adam Bacher. Absolutely no use without prior authorization. All rights reserved.

When the genocide began on April 7th, 1994, many ethnic Tutsis and moderate Hutus took refuge in churches, believing militias would not enter these areas which were perceived as sanctuaries. At the Nymata Catholic Church, located in the Bugesera district, 35 km south of the capital of Kigali, 10,000 people were killed in and around the grounds between April 14 - 19. Other large scale massacres occurred in Catholic Churches throughout the country as priests, nuns, and church officials systematically fled Rwanda after the genocide began. In some cases, priests and other officials were complicit in the killings.

The Bugesera district was one of the areas most devastated by the genocide. From a population of 62,000, only 2,000 survived. The photo below shows the front of the Nyamata church. People congregated there from all around. To protect themselves they padlocked the iron gate, hoping to keep the Hutu militias and their Interahamwe leaders at bay. Thwarted on the first attempt to take the church, the militias came back with grenades. The hole in the gate shows where one grenade was used to gain entry. The banner over the door reads:

If you knew me, and you really knew yourself, you would not have killed me.

Inside, militias found thousands. The sanctuary below would have been overflowing beyond maximum capacity. Every space, concealed or open, was filled with frightened people hoping to escape death. People were inside closets and cupboards, under the alter and under the floor boards, any place large enough to fit. The militias came in shooting. Daylight can be seen through the bullet holes in the ceiling.

Most would have preferred bullets to machetes. Nearly all were killed by machetes.

The blood stains on the walls – shoulder height throughout the building – are mostly faded. The fabric covering the alter still bares the staines.

Everyone in Rwanda had to carry an ID card like this one. Your photo goes on the left side, at the top center. Just below, in bold, is a spot to check your ethnicity. The edges are darkened with blood, and the hole is from a bullet.

The basement of the church now holds one of many mass graves. Eight others are accessible behind the church. This grave is typical. The entrance begins with twelve steep steps down.

Short narrow hallways go off to the left and right, a shoulder and a half wide. On each side, racks of skulls and bones cover floor to ceiling. Some of the graves have coffins, each filled with many sets of bones.

After release from prison, one of the genocide perpetrators revealed he had participated in a larger number of killings. The names of all his victims are listed on this plaque.
Copyright Adam Bacher. All rights reserved. Absolutely no use without prior authorization.

Copyright Adam Bacher. All rights reserved. Absolutely no use without prior authorization.

In times of armed conflict, children are among the most vulnerable - as victims, hostages and worse. During the genocide in Rwanda, one million people were killed in the span of one-hundred days. The killers did not discriminate; men, women, or children, any who were identified as from the “wrong” ethnicity were killed.

With the fall of the genocidal regime, perpetrators (genocidairs) and organizers of the atrocities (Interhamwe) fled Rwanda to avoid prosecution, along with large numbers of the population who feared retribution.

The Interhamwe quickly began to recruit militias; they reorganized as rebel forces operating over the northwestern border of Rwanda in the Democratic Republic of Congo, formerly Zaire. Large numbers refugee Rwandan children were recruited and forced to take part in new attacks and atrocities, carry loads of ammunitions, work as messengers, and cook and assist in other tasks.

For rebel groups, child recruits are seen as the most expendable. Easily manipulated, children were forced to commit some of the most brutal atrocities including the rape, maiming and slaughter of victims. If they refused to take part they were killed. Over time, many child soldiers have escaped and returned to Rwanda. In other cases, Rwandan army units liberated them. To date, child ex-child combatants that have returned to Rwanda number in the hundreds, with an estimated 2,000 remaining in the DRC soldiering for Interhamwe groups against their will.

In February, 2004, the Rwandan Demobilization and Reintegration Commission, opened a Child Ex-Combatants Rehabilitation Center, an hour’s drive east of Kigali. This week we were invited to tour the facility. Situated in a wooded setting near the shore of lake Muhazi, the center in on the grounds of a former military training camp. It had a feeling similar to that of many summer youth camps I’ve seen in the United States.

Take away the mosquito netting, and the bunk house bore resemblance to a rustic youth camp; beds made and lined down the wall, clothes hanging from the headboards, tennis shoes and sandals on the floor, drawings tacked to the walls, boxes with personal goods next to or underneath the beds.

The goal of the facility, according to a paper we were given entitled “Confronting the Challenges,” is to “diligently respond to the need for these children to be repatriated, rehabilitated, reunited with their families, and reintegrated into main stream society, thus restoring their right to enjoy their childhood and grow up into responsible citizens.” When I asked about the current group, I was told they had a population of 36 kids, two of which were under 10 years old, the bulk between 12 and 17. I’m usually good at staying dispassionate on photo shoots, however it was hard for me at this location. I had trouble getting the thought out of my mind that some of these kids were the same age to my two daughters, 11 and 13. A problem compounded when I started hearing the list of atrocities many of them had been forced or seduced into committing.

One of the conditions of our tour was that I would not publish any photos of the children’s faces. Most looked very hardened, a few soft and innocent. They wore the same khaki color uniforms of public school children. I had hoped to see and photograph them during their daily classes and activities, however, we met only at the end of our tour. The kids were grouped together in a covered area seated in rows on benches. Six of the older children greeted us with a traditional Rwandan dance.

The facilities’ social psychologist gave us with a brief overview of the of center and it’s philosophical approach. Rehabilitation includes, among others: psycho-social support, art therapy, civic education, literacy and numeric teaching, socializing and life skills activities, and community sensitization and advocacy done in the communities where the children will be reintegrated. On the walls around him were examples of the typical progression of art from when the children arrive to when they leave. The pictures in the photo behind him were common to new arrivals, depicting scenes of guns and battle.

As time progresses the art shows more customary scenes.

When Victoria Trabosh, President of the Itafari Foundation, addressed the group she used phonic flash cards to teach some english words. With her sense of humor and masterful interpersonal skills, I watched the tough and closed looking group briefly show their child side with laughter and boyish smiles.

All images copyright Adam Bacher. All rights reserved. Absolutely no use without prior authorization.

At 5:30 in the morning, myself and Chysologue (my interpreter) were dropped off by motorcycle taxi to a family’s house, in a village where the few that have transportation may have an old gearless bike.  I spent my time there following and photographing, “the day in the life” of two children, brother and sister.

Sunrise - an hour after I arrived to Claudette’s house.

It was before dawn when we arrived at Claudette’s house. Her 16 year old brother, Justin, and two children, John Claude (8), and Naomie (10), were already awake. The young ones were completing the first of the morning routines, taking the chickens out of the house and putting the larger ones in the mud walled pen outside.

This chicken wanted to come back in.

The family I was with count themselves among the most impoverished in Rwanda. Where they live has no running water, and no electricity. Their house was made of mud, bricks and a fabricated sheet metal roof. The floors were the hard red dirt common to this part of Africa. Yet their spirits were of the richest the world has to offer.

John Claude boils water to use for breakfast, in the cooking area on the side of the house.

Justin bathes while the children continue with their morning chores.

On this day I witnessed something incredible. It didn’t come in a box, it wasn’t in a museum, it was no great feat of science, engineering, or technology. In the course of an average day I witnessed an astonishing abundance of laughter, joy, community, neighbors and strangers coming together.

John Claude and Naomie have breakfast.

Claudette waits in front of the house to see the children off to school. The house is divided into two apartments, and the four of them live in the right half to this structure. The chicken pen is in the lower right.

Leaving the house for school.

On the way to school with some friends.

Tomorrow I’ll post part two - A day in school with John Claude and Niomie.

Copyright Adam Bacher. All rights reserved. Absolutely no use without prior authorization.

On October 1^st, 2007, I spent “a day in the life” of two Itafari sponsored children, John Claude and Naomie, an experience that will stay with me forever. After breakfast and chores we walked to school. The kids are fortunate, the school is under a mile from their house. Today their mother, Claudette, will walk with us to introduce me to the principal and ask permission for the mzungu (white skinned person) to photograph at the school.

In much of Rwanda, especially in this area, no one has ever seen a fair skinned person before. Imagine a baby elephant. Now imagine that elephant in red high heels and a top hat. How would you react if you saw this elephant walking through your neighborhood? Today, it wouldn’t matter if it were me, Bono, or Bill Gates, the reaction would be the same. Everyone stops to look, the children being the boldest, to see the “mzungu.” I heard the word often during the day. It’s not used as a racial slur. They’re just making a honest statement about something unusual.

When we arrived at the school, many children crowded around me. Finally a place, where Bono and I would be equals. The big camera around my neck may even give me an edge.

Their shoes, imported from China, are foam rubber and the least expensive available. I couldn’t get over how much they resemble the latest fad for school children in the United States. With a few minor modifications, they’re no different from the crocs shoes that sell for thirty dollars and up in the U.S.

This was a common view for me before school started and during recess.

The schol day began with the students lining up outside by the flag to sing the national antheum and recite a short prayer. Then, class by class they filed off to their rooms to begin their studies.

The start of school began with cleaning; the chalk boards, the classrooms, the walkways outside.

John Claude struggles to work a math problem and his teacher helps him out.

At 9:30 a.m. it’s already feeling like a long day.

Next I went on to Naomie’s class.

Naomie stands to answer a question after being called on.

Some other students in the class room.

At 12:15 school let out for an hour and a half to give the kids time to go home for lunch. In some schools, where resources are more plentiful, the children will stay in school for lunch. One of the endearing qualities about Rwandan culture is the closeness and affection shared among friends, young and old. This next photograph is a scene I’ve observed many times since coming here, in the city and the country side. You would only see this between friends. Couples do not show their affections in public at all.

Copyright Adam Bacher. All rights reserved. Absolutely no use without prior authorization.

On October 1 st, 2007, I spent “a day in the life” of two Itafari sponsored children, John Claude and Naomie, who live in an impoverished village on the outskirts of Kigali. An experience that will stay with me forever.

After school the kids had two things to they needed to accomplish: get water and collect fire wood. In many areas of Rwanda, running water is not available. Some people spend as much as three hours a day walking to get water. Water is survival, and in Rwanda it’s carried mostly in 20 liter yellow jerry cans.

Not an uncommon sight, this man has just finished filling 5 water cans and is on his way home. 20 liters of water weighs 44 pounds (Add the container and it’s 50 pounds a can).

The next time you think you have it bad, imagine caring 50 pounds of water on your head, or carrying 100 pounds (50 on each arm)? Now imagine doing that with a malnourished body on an empty stomach.

John Claude and Naomie are fortunate, their water source is less than a half mile walk from home. Going with empty cans isn’t bad. For kids there are 5 liter containers.

The government has piped water into many areas. Their immediate goal is to have water access within a 2 kilometer walk for everyone.

For a child, 20 pounds of water makes the walk home a much bigger choir. As soon a I took this photo, I also took a can from each of them.

After returning home to drop off the water, we headed out to collect fire wood. The walk was much further this time, almost an hour, to a spot where Claudette is renting a small plot of land to cultivate food. Here the children collected fallen wood from the side of the road. I began to help, but the wood they were gathering had small barbs on the branches and was piercing my skin. Due to deforestation, cutting down trees is strictly regulated in Rwanda.

Naomie gathering wood.

Walking back Naomie was able to easily balance her load. John Claude had to hang on.

The last thing the family did before I left was feed the chickens. Each bird was taken from the pen, and one by one Claudette tied a crudely fashioned rope to their legs.

John Claude holding two chickens awaiting to be tethered.

Then the chickens were placed on the ground and given corn.

Naomie holding a rooster to be put back in the pen after feeding.

The last photos I took before leaving for the day were of two of Claudette’s friends. This woman lives with her family in the other half of the house.

This woman looked wiser than most people I know.

And she had a great smile.

If you’re interested in sponsoring a child in Rwanda, or want to help in another way, I encourage you to contact the Itafari Foundation, a 501(c)(3) organization ( http://itafari.org ), and help support their extraordinary work. You can give directly through their secure website, or send a check to Itafari Foundation, 27 El Greco, Lake Oswego, OR 97035. USA

Murakoze Cyane (thank you very much!)

Copyright Adam Bacher. All right reserved. Absolutely no use without prior authorization.

On our way visit goat farms in the eastern province of Rwanda, a young man passed us taking his herd of ankole cattle to the local watering hole. The cadence of the heard, hoofs stomping dry ground and horns clanking against one another made me long for a way to record the sounds. Today, the visual will have to do.

All photography copy right Adam Bacher. All Rights Reserved. Absolutely no use without prior authorization.

There are approximately 350 mountain gorillas (Gorilla beringei beringei) left in the world. Their habitat range is small protected afromontane forest patches, in northwest Rwanda, southwest Uganda and eastern Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). On October 8th, myself and seven others went with a guide to spend time with the Kwitonda group - a family of seventeen gorillas. Here’s a link to see photos of your cousins, the gorillas.

Click on this link to see the photos!
MOUNTAIN GORILLAS
Enjoy!